My Ongoing Love Affair with Merlot
Many of my friends want to get me a hat that says, “Make Merlot Great Again,” because of my emphatic dedication to the noble grape. As cheeky as that is, I would genuinely wear it because I have been a huge fan of Merlot for my entire career. And for those who know the quote from the Movie Sideways, “I am not drinking any stinking Merlot.” I would remind them of a couple of things: First, they were talking about California Merlot which is often over ripe, flavorful yet clumsy, and unstructured. Second, I would remind people that the main character then drank from a spittoon ten minutes later in the film. I am not sure you should take his advice on wine.
I, on the other hand, have spent a decent amount of time on the right bank of Bordeaux where Merlot is King. Add to this the discovery of how outstanding Merlot can be here in Washington state and you can understand my fascination with the grape. The proof is in the pudding. I created a small Merlot dominant label called D2 back in 1992 that has grown over the years to become a shining example of what Merlot can do in this state.
Many people think that Merlot is just a blender adding softer tannins to Bordeaux Blends. Indeed, adding different varietal components to these blends creates some of the most complex and balanced wines around the world. I have always loved building these wines. However, be assured that Merlot has its own defining characteristics and can be outstanding on its own.
Merlot is often red-fruited wine. If you want a big, jammy wine then get yourself a steak and a new world Syrah and enjoy. Just know that many if not most of the great red wines of the world are often red-fruited. Pinot Noir, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and yes, Merlot are all best served when winemakers take their foot off the uber ripe, jammy gas and instead produce wine that has intensity and savory elegance.
To me, this is Merlot: Start with a solid core structure that all 5 Bordeaux varieties have. Add fresh and vibrant flavors of black cherries, currants, and other red fruits and combine this with a savory mouthwatering mouth feel all its own. Merlot often has a beautiful floral nose and of course soft, round tannins that Petite Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon often fight with. Because of these rounder tannins, Merlot finds itself going with a much larger variety of food and wine combinations.
If you are lucky enough to travel to Bordeaux, I would encourage you to travel down the left bank where the great houses like Margeaux, Latour, and Lafite rest their glorious Cabernet Sauvignon in their unbelievably opulent cellars. However, if you somehow skip the right bank, you are really doing yourself a disservice. Pomerol and Saint Emillion are the homes of Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Pavie, Figeac, Angelus and so many others. Over the centuries these Chateaus have produced wines that are the pinnacle of Merlot. They have given the world some of the most unbelievable wines of any kind and from anywhere.
Just to give you a taste of this amazing grape, this is The Wine Advocates description of a 2010 Pavie wine I had at the Chateau two years ago,
“The 2010 Pavie delivers tantalizing suggestions of candied violets, star anise and tapenade over a core of prunes, blueberry compote, Morello cherries and fruitcake with touches of underbrush and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, rich and exotically opulent, the palate has a rock-solid texture of velvety tannins and bold freshness supporting the generous palate of black and blue berry preserves, finishing long and fragrant. 100 Points”
A truly iconic wine that I will always remember. My descriptions also had violets and anise, but it is the mouth feel that had me at “Hello.” “Rich and exotically opulent” texture, “velvety tannins and bold freshness.” It was a combination of richness and elegance that you rarely see.
Ok, I know what you’re thinking, “Great Chris, you’re sitting in a beautiful Chateau pontificating over a $500 dollar bottle of wine. I am sure it was amazing, but what does that have to do with us?” By the way I had to buy a case of that wine so if my grandkids don’t go to college, you will know why.
Moving on, I think this is where Washington State comes to the rescue. In the early 90’s when I first started making wine, Merlot was the grape we were all talking about. Even Allen Shoup and Ste Michelle’s Winemakers believed that Washington State would be America’s best Merlot producer. David Lake was strong on his Red Willow Merlot at Columbia winery and Leonetti was already winning awards for his Merlot. As I mentioned, I jumped into the fray with D2, a merlot dominant wine. We all hoped and believed we could make our own graceful, elegant version of this rich and opulent wine. Australia couldn’t do it. Chile’s merlot was actually Carmenere and as our friend in Sideways proclaimed, California was struggling with the Merlot as well.
For 30 years, a host of wineries here in Washington State spent a great deal of time trying to give this important grape its due. I am proud to be one of the winemakers contributing to the cause over the years and I must say our efforts have produced some outstanding merlots. The Upchurch Vineyard Counterpart Merlot has all the opulently textured floral elegance a person would want. It is another wine that had me at hello.
Please come by our tasting room and see what I am talking about.
Chris Upchurch
